In this series of questions, you are an expert at domestic horticulture. I enjoy taking care of our various indoor and outdoor trees and plants, but don’t assume I know anything.
In the first question, we have a large outdoor pot in which some tomato plants have now lasted for three years in Los Angeles, surviving the winter and growing well again every spring when it warms up.
Should I give the outdoor pot with these tomato plants, some kind of fertilizer?
ChatGPT said:
Yes, you should give your outdoor tomato pot some fertilizer—especially since the plant has lasted multiple seasons and the soil in pots gets depleted over time.
Here’s why and how:
Why Fertilize a Multi-Year Potted Tomato Plant?
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Nutrient depletion: Every year, your tomato plant draws nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients from the potting soil. Unlike in-ground plants, there’s no natural replenishment from surrounding earth or decomposing organic matter.
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Vigorous growers: Tomatoes are heavy feeders—especially when flowering or fruiting—so they'll need more than the pot can offer long-term.
What Kind of Fertilizer Should You Use?
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Balanced or Tomato-Specific Fertilizer:
Look for something like:-
10-10-10 or 5-10-5 (general purpose)
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Or a tomato-specific blend (e.g., 4-6-8), which supports fruiting.
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Organic Option:
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Compost or fish emulsion or seaweed extract (for gentle but rich feeding)
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Worm castings are great in pots and improve soil texture too.
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How to Apply (Keep It Simple)
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Liquid (e.g., Miracle-Gro or fish emulsion): Mix and water every 2–3 weeks.
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Granular: Mix a small amount into the top inch of soil, every 4–6 weeks.
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Compost or worm castings: Spread a thin layer (½ inch) on the surface and water it in.
Would you like a recommendation for a specific product that’s easy to find in Los Angeles? Or a tip on improving the soil in the pot for next year?
You said:
ChatGPT said:
Ah! That changes everything—and makes your tomato plant kind of a survivor legend.
If it’s been three years with no fertilizer, then yes, the soil is almost certainly severely depleted, like a party that’s out of chips, music, and guests. Time to help it out.
Step-by-Step Rescue Plan for Your Potted Tomato
1. Immediate Boost (This Week)
Give it a quick-release liquid fertilizer—like Miracle-Gro Tomato Feed or fish emulsion. This is like Gatorade for your plant.
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Mix as directed on the bottle (usually 1 tablespoon per gallon of water).
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Water the soil thoroughly with it (don’t just spritz the leaves).
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Do this again in two weeks to kick-start things.
2. Medium-Term Feed (Next 1–2 Months)
Add a granular slow-release fertilizer or organic tomato food into the top inch of soil. This will provide nutrients steadily over time.
Good examples:
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Dr. Earth Organic Tomato & Vegetable Fertilizer
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Espoma Tomato-tone
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Osmocote Vegetable Formula (if you’re okay with synthetic pellets)
3. Bonus Option: Soil Rejuvenation
If the pot is roomy and the plant allows it, add 1–2 inches of compost or worm castings on top. This helps retain water, adds slow nutrients, and improves soil texture.
Going Forward
After this triple-punch:
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Fertilize monthly during growing season (spring through fall).
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Ease off in winter when growth slows.
You said:
ChatGPT said:
Yes, I recognize that plant—you're caring for a Monstera deliciosa, also known as a Swiss Cheese Plant or Split-leaf Philodendron (though it's not a philodendron, just a cousin). It’s a classic tropical foliage plant and does very well in Los Angeles, especially in filtered outdoor light.
What’s Going On With the Leaves?
The yellowing and browning of the leaves (especially edges and tips) could come from one or more of the following:
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Nutrient depletion – likely, if it’s been in that same pot and soil for years.
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Salt buildup – from years of tap watering without flushing.
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Too much direct sun – Monsteras like bright but indirect light. That yellowing on upper leaves might mean too much intense light midday.
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Inconsistent watering – they like to dry a bit between deep waterings, but not too much.
Fertilizer for Your Monstera
Monstera is not picky, but here’s what works best:
Type
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Use a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, like 20-20-20, or a general foliage plant fertilizer (e.g., 3-1-2 or 10-10-10).
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For an organic option, go with worm castings, fish emulsion, or a seaweed-based product.
How Often
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Every 4–6 weeks during active growing season (spring through fall).
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Skip or reduce in winter unless it's putting out new growth.
Extra Tips for Reviving It
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Flush the pot: every few months, water deeply until it drains freely, to wash out old salts.
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Trim off fully yellow or brown leaves to keep it focused on healthy growth.
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If roots are circling the pot or pushing out the drainage holes, consider repotting or dividing it.
Would you like a product recommendation (organic vs. conventional), or are you also curious whether you should repot this one soon?
You said:
ChatGPT said:
Great question—and you're not alone in wondering this. Fertilizer packages often assume you're feeding a field of corn, not one beloved potted plant!
How Much 10-10-10 Granular Fertilizer for a Large Pot?
For an 18- to 20-inch-wide pot (which holds about 10–15 gallons of soil), a good rule of thumb is:
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1 to 2 tablespoons of granular 10-10-10 every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season.
Instructions
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Sprinkle evenly over the soil surface (avoid piling it near the base of the stem).
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Gently mix the fertilizer into the top inch of soil with your fingers or a small trowel.
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Water thoroughly afterward to help it absorb and reach the roots.
Why not more?
Too much fertilizer can burn the roots or cause salt buildup over time—especially in pots. The plant won’t grow faster with more; it’ll just suffer.
Optional Upgrade
Every few months, add a handful of worm castings or compost on top of the soil to gently enrich the mix and improve texture.
Would you like a quick reference chart I can make for pot size vs. fertilizer amount?
You said:
ChatGPT said:
You’ve got a lovely Money Tree—botanically known as Pachira aquatica.
That braided trunk is a giveaway, and the large, palmate (hand-like) leaves are classic. It’s a tropical plant that tolerates indoor life well, but in temperate homes, it often sheds leaves in winter due to dry air, cooler temperatures, or reduced light—just like yours. The fact that it bounces back reliably every spring means you're giving it a pretty decent environment overall!
Fertilizer for Money Tree (Pachira aquatica)
Best Type
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Use a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer—something like:
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10-10-10 or 20-20-20, diluted
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Or a milder option like 3-1-2
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Organic options: Fish emulsion, liquid kelp, or worm casting tea
How Often
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Every 4–6 weeks during active growth (spring to early fall)
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Skip in winter, when it's semi-dormant and shedding
How Much
For a pot this size:
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Use half strength of the recommended dose on the label
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For example: if it says 1 tablespoon per gallon, use ½ tablespoon per gallon
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Water the plant with the diluted solution (don’t just pour dry fertilizer in the pot)
Extra Tips
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Your tree might appreciate a humidifier or pebble tray in winter.
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Wipe the leaves gently with a damp cloth every now and then—indoor dust can slow photosynthesis.
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Rotate the pot every few weeks so the plant doesn’t lean toward the window.
Let me know if you want a fertilizer brand you can pick up nearby (like at Armstrong Garden Center or Home Depot in LA), or if you want to try a slow-release fertilizer that only needs to be applied every 3 months.
You said:
ChatGPT said:
That’s a very telling—and actually quite normal—development for a Money Tree of that age, especially one living indoors in Los Angeles.
Here’s what’s likely going on, and why you probably don’t need to worry:
What’s Causing the Annual Leaf Drop?
In its younger years, your Pachira aquatica was likely still in a high-growth, juvenile phase, during which it could power through winter dormancy without much protest—especially if it had decent light and stable conditions.
Now that it’s mature and well-established, it may be entering a more seasonally sensitive rhythm, even indoors. This can cause:
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Leaf drop in winter, triggered by:
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Lower light levels
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Shorter days
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Drier indoor air (especially with heaters)
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Possibly slight root crowding in the aging pot
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But here's the key: that exuberant spring rebound tells us the plant is fundamentally healthy and vigorous. Think of it like a bear that now hibernates in winter because it’s grown up enough to have that cycle.
What You Can Do (Optional)
You don’t need to “fix” it—but you can optimize its environment to possibly reduce winter leaf drop:
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Add humidity in winter (humidifier or pebble tray with water)
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Give it a quarter turn every week or two for balanced light
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Supplement light in winter with a low-wattage grow bulb if you’re curious to experiment
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In spring/summer, feed with a half-strength balanced liquid fertilizer every 4–6 weeks
Bottom Line
Your tree’s seasonal leaf drop sounds like a natural evolution. You’ve done a great job keeping it healthy for seven years—just treat it gently in winter, and let it shine in spring.
Would you like a tip on whether it might need repotting soon, or would you prefer to keep it in this current size pot indefinitely?
You said:
ChatGPT said:
You’re absolutely right to raise an eyebrow: it’s notable that three different citrus trees (lemon, orange, grapefruit) in the same garden are all showing the same pattern—dead wood + still some healthy growth and fruiting. That narrows the differential diagnosis and points toward environmental stress, age-related decline, or rootstock issues, more than a single citrus-specific disease.
Let’s walk through this like a good gardener-detective:
Top Possibilities – Citrus Trees with Dead Branches + Live Growth
1. Drought Stress or Irregular Watering
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Older citrus trees become less resilient to fluctuations in watering.
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If they experienced dry periods or poor soak-in (e.g., quick surface watering), the outer or higher branches die off.
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LA’s winters and recent droughts can create this effect over time.
Clue: This can cause “dieback” at the tips, while the base may still be healthy.
2. Rootstock Decline or Graft Incompatibility
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Most citrus trees are grafted. After 15–20 years, some rootstocks just start to fail.
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Citrus trifoliata, for example, is hardy but doesn’t always age well.
Clue: Uneven vitality on the tree, strange growth patterns, or suckering near the base.
3. Soil Nutrition Exhaustion
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If the trees haven’t been fertilized regularly, they may be low in key minerals, especially:
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Nitrogen (leaf drop, yellowing)
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Magnesium and zinc (branch decline, poor flowering)
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Clue: You see bare limbs and smaller fruits or blossoms in spring.
4. Fungal or Bacterial Dieback
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This is less likely in all three trees at once—but possible.
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Common fungal culprits: Phytophthora, Botryosphaeria.
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Can enter through cuts or wounds and spread inward.
Clue: A dark ring around dead branches or oozing at the base.
5. Citrus Greening (Huanglongbing) or Citrus Tristeza Virus
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Serious threats in Southern California, but rare for all 3 trees at once.
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Greening causes small, bitter, lopsided fruit and leaf mottling.
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Tristeza causes sudden collapse, especially in older trees.
Clue: Ask your local Master Gardener extension office if there’s an outbreak.
Recommended Action Plan
Step 1: Prune
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Remove all dead wood down to living tissue (green under bark).
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Make clean cuts with sterilized shears.
Step 2: Fertilize
Use a citrus-specific fertilizer, like:
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Citrus-tone (Espoma)
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Dr. Earth Citrus & Avocado
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Miracle-Gro Citrus, Avocado, Mango food
Apply 3x/year: late winter, late spring, late summer.
Step 3: Water Deeply, Infrequently
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Once or twice a week in summer.
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Use a slow trickle or soaker hose.
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Avoid frequent shallow watering.
Step 4: Mulch
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Apply 2–3 inches of bark mulch (keep away from trunk base).
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Helps with root health and moisture retention.
Step 5: Watch
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If deadwood increases despite care, it may be time for soil testing or a consultation with a certified arborist or county extension agent.
